G’day Mate! TRANSPORT TRANSPORT!…mushrooms girlfriend marijuana….?

Surfboard for rent on Bali's most popular beach in Kuta, Indonesia © Soren Egeberg // Zeamonkey Images

Hanging out in Kuta, Bali after a weeklong photo and diving trip to the islands of Komodo and Rinca, processing RAW-files, answering emails and generally being computer productive. While Komodo was quiet days at sea, only interrupted  by four daily dives and and a steady stream of delicious food thanks to a lovely Thai crew, Kuta is the essence of shit.

Kuta is Indonesia’s holiday hellhole no.1, dominated by australians to an extend, that made me check the stamp in my passport. While its impossible to walk the street without being hassled by local entrepreneurs trying to sell you motorbikes, taxis and the usual tourist junk, you will be addressed as “Mate” on any given occasion. Well there is a 95% chance is was a “mate”. In short, this place is FULL of oozes meeting other ozzies, they get drunk, they go shopping at prices equivalent to home, food is shit like at  home, they go surfing like at home, they lie in the sun like at home, the locals speak english with ozzie accent like at home, in fact EVERYTHING is like home. Why come to Bali?

This place is a mystery to me. Since my first visit in 1991, little has changed. The hotels are fancier, chains like McDonalds, Starbucks and Hard Rock Cafe has moved in and the locals don’t follow you for miles when trying to flok you belts, sarongs and the usual fake junk that flourish in the local Kuta shops. Prices and traffic is up. Yet the australian invation of Kuta never seems to stop. Kuta, it was interesting to see you again after 19 years, but i’m still not your bloody MATE!

Lost in Komodo

The lush green island of Setonda on route to Komodo, Indonesia © Soren Egeberg // Zeamonkey Images

A long planned trip finally took form and turned out to be everything I expected and more. Cruising Indonesia’s Nusa Tengerra archipelago from Bali to Komodo and Rinca islands for 7 days onboard the MV Queen Scuba, dropping in to shoot some of the best diving the World has to offer. Needless to say my expectations were high.

From the moment we left Bali, the world as we know it disappeared. At dusk we crossed the Lombok strait, passing Lombok overnight and woke up to our first magic sunrise at Moyo Island. Gone were other boats, other life for that matter. A glassy surface, only broken by a the tiny golden sandbank that marks Angel Reef, awaited us for the first dive.

Sleeping on the top deck of any liveaboard diveboat is an essential part of my experience at sea. Wake up with the sunrise before anybody else, pick up the camera and put the memory card to work. What better day to start the day, followed by first caffeine boost of the day, along with a light breakfast before the boat start coming alive with crew and divers.

Backrolling in from the rib with a  small group of experienced divers, deflating and then seeing…noone. Clear blue water, no other divers, a steep wall and minimum 30 meters visibility. Corals healthier than I’ve seen them anywhere and  a colorful vibrant marinelife everywhere I looked.  For once it was hard deciding where and what to shoot, there was just so much it was overwhelming. Only diving from a liveaboard in remote corners of the globe, will give you this kind of experience. The diving industry is extremely developed in Thailand where i normally work and dive. This could not compare. Seeing what a healthy coral reef could look like without impact from hordes of divers, was quite an eyeopener.

Komodo Dragon resting in the forest on Komodo Island, Indonesia © Soren Egeberg/Zeamonkey Images

Black sandy slopes dominated the first few days of diving on Moyo and Setonda islands outside Komodo National Park. Dives are dedicated to the weird and wonderful macro life that hides itself so well that is take a set of very trained eyes to spot them. While not to everyones taste, this is my preferred type of diving. With pelagic species like trivially and sharks you are left to chance, macro life is everywhere if you can find it. Our guide Hari did an excellent job. Hairy Squat lobster, Nudibranchs, Shrimps, Frogfish, Octopus, Ghost pipefish and the funky stuff seemed to pop up out of nowhere. Needless to say my macro lens worked overtime on these dives. It was nice being productive again.

As we cruised through this seemingly vast expanse of deserted islands from one crazy cool divesite to the next, we were slowly approaching Komodo National Park, home of the famed Komodo Dragons.

Bali Anti-climax

Kuta Beach in Bali is a popular surfing beach for australian tourists and Indonesian locals alike © Soren Egeberg // Zeamonkey Images

Finally arrived in Bali after a week on the road. When you mention the name Bali, most people who has never been here, will think of a beach paradise with white sandy beaches to soak up the sun. If you expect this, look elsewhere. Apart from a few spots in the south, Bali beaches mostly consists of black pepple stone and coarse sand.  I’m not here to lie on the beach, but to dip below the waves in scuba gear carrying full DLSR gear protected by a waterproof aluminum housing with strobes attached.

The highlight of this trip was to visit Komodo Island and shoot some of the most interesting marinelife this planet has to offer, BUT thanks to our lovely online service Paypal, this is not gonna happen. Paypal decided at this critical moment to place my account under review because of my payment for this trip 994 Euro. Unable to provide all their required paperwork from my current location in Indonesia my payment cannot be completed and I’m forced to cancel my trip of a lifetime. Thanks Paypal, I’ll never require your services ever again!

Barnaby Caddick ready for take off with his paraglider on the hills above Candidasa, Bali Indonesia. © Soren Egeberg/Zeamonkey Images 

The day however opened my eyes to a new sport I’ve never tried before: Paragliding. A good friend of mine is currently in Bali and he invited me to come along to shoot with him and some friends for the day, in the foothills above the coastal town of Candidasa. It was awesome, and I’ve decided to take up paragliding starting with an 8 day course (replacing my long awaited Komodo-trip)to get my own license to fly and explore the photo opportunities in this area. I guess things happen for a reason…

Now I’ve landed safely in my usual hideaway the small village Jemeluk near Amed in the northeast of Bali. Some good friends live hear and it was great catching up – the next week will be spent underwater looking for seahorses and other small creatures. Time to dive!

A pair of colorful Harlequin Shrimp feeding on a sea star underwater in Bali, Indonesia. © Soren Egeberg/Zeamonkey Images

Back to Bali

Traditional outrigger fishing boats on the beach in Candidasa in northeast Bali, Indonesia. © Soren Egeberg // Zeamonkey Images

Tomorrow it’s time to return to Indonesia, my favorite playground when it comes to diving and photography. Almost a year has gone by since my last visit, way too long by the way, but somehow work always got in the way. Now it’s time.

The itinerary is pretty open, but a visit to my long time friends in the northeast of Bali just can’t be missed. A sleepy little villages just before Amed has been my base for diving and shooting on my last three visits to the Island of the Gods. Quiet and peaceful, with some amazing diving right off the beach 100m from my hotel door, what more can you ask for after a long year of working in Thailand. As a retreat it can’t be beat, feels like home away from home. BUMP! As i’m writing this, a motorbike just got knocked over on the street next to where i’m sitting writing this post. Driver seems unhurt, good news.

Not that Bali is much different, traffic on the main roads are chaotic at best, almost feels like riding a bike in a Playstation game, unreal. How I have survived so far is beyond me, but knowing myself, I’ll be on a bike in Balinese traffic once again in a few days.

Today is time for last preparations before flying out, yet I’m having a hard time getting out of Starbucks to buy the last few missing items. Converterplugs being one item and a Leatherman tool (old one was taken by Thai airport officials when I forgot to pack it in my checked luggage, rookie mistake. Finish my overpriced coffee in a minute and i’m off, next post from Bali.

Back to blogging and a few old post to start out with.

Kuala Lumpur skyline with Petrona Twin Towers and KLCC in Malaysia. © Soren Egeberg // Zeamonkey Images

It has been emotional finally starting to blog again and share my ever changing life in the aquatic sphere i call home, but here we go again. This time around my blog will be focused on photography and less diving.

As i’m writing this i have just been out on a month long journey that took me through Malaysia and several of Indonesia’s 17.000 islands in search for images above and below the waves. Yeah you probably guessed it, I’m obsessed with scuba diving and photography and thats what this trip was all about.

My first stop was Kulala Lumpur, a city I have spent much time in in previous years but it’s ben 12 months since my last visit. Bustling with life, cultures, shopping, tourists and most of all my favourite hangout, Starbucks. to most of you, this is nothing special, but when the place I call home is a small tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand, this city is very different. Big cities are great in small doses, but personally I prefer island environments where I’m close to the ocean and scuba diving.

I had a few days to kill there before departing for Bali, Indonesia, so was excited to go play with my new Canon 7D and see how it held up against my old worn 20D, which has served me so well in the past, especially when shooting underwater.

A few friends arrived over the weekend, one of them would accompany me on my trip through Indonesia in search for wicked diving.